Be sure not to remove or damage the thin, metal flashing at the top of the window. At this point, you should be able to lift the window out of the opening.
Get a helper—steel windows are heavy. First, set the window into the opening and center it. Place a level on the bottom frame and use shims to level it. Add shims to the sides to take up the space between the rough frame and the window frame. Check the sides for plumb vertically level by placing a level against the face of the frame, and the front of the frame.
The window must be level in all three dimensions—horizontally, vertically on the sides, vertically on the front. Screw the window to the rough frame in the manner specified by the window manufacturer. Check the window for plumb and level after it is fastened in place. Measure between the inside opposing diagonal corners of the frame to check for square; top left to bottom right and top right to bottom left.
If not, loosen the screws holding the window in place and use shims to nudge the window into a square. Reinstall the exterior molding and caulk between the molding and siding, and between the molding and window frame to seal the window. Inside, use non-expanding foam to fill the gap between the window frame and the rough frame.
Be cautious not to overfill and wait to install the trim until the foam is set and hard to the touch. To view this site, you must enable JavaScript or upgrade to a JavaScript-capable browser.
In this specific basement window replacement case, we needed to remove the louvers, or glass slats, in this jalousie window. It could be a hopper or awning sash, however. Once you've removed the innards of the window, it's time to attack the frame.
The goal here is to get down to the rough opening in the concrete. It's not the easiest task in the world, because the frame has been secured to the concrete. However, it is not impossible! Take a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade and make a deep cut in the middle of the bottom of the frame.
This will weaken the strength of the frame and allow you to wedge a pry bar in between the concrete and the aluminum or steel frame. Work one side of the frame at a time--using the pry bar to get a grip on the frame and carefully wedge it out of the rough opening. If your frame is steel, you will most likely have to make a cut with the reciprocating saw on every side of the frame, because it is much harder than aluminum to pry off. Once you get the window frame, you're left with the rough opening in the concrete.
This is what you need to measure if you still need to purchase replacement windows. Basement Systems, Inc. Find Local Dealer. Free Quote. Got a wet basement? Musty odors? Zip Code. Built with reinforced vinyl frames that won't rust or rot. Double-pane glass will help prevent heat loss.
Available as a slider window or as a fixed window insert. See Full Details Find a Dealer.
0コメント